Encryption on USB Flash Drives

USB Flash Memory Drives have become the replacement of the floppy disk.  You can get a 16GB flash drive for around $50 so they offer a great backup and travel option.  But what if you have your important data on it and you lose it?  Then whoever finds it will have easy access to all your data.  That’s why encrypting your data on a flash drive is so important.

Mac OS X Disk Utility

Some operating systems like Mac OS X have built in features to create encrypted volumes.  This can be done through disk utility.  You create a file of whatever size you want and that becomes a new mountable volume once you double click it and enter your password.  Without the password, you just see a single file that you can do nothing with.  This is a great option for Mac OS X but then if you find you need to access your files on Windows or Linux, you are out of luck.

TrueCrypt

The best multi-OS solution is TrueCrypt.  You can download versions of TrueCrypt for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux.  You should then copy each of these versions to your flash drive.  Then you can run the appropriate version on whatever OS you are on.  With TrueCrypt, you can create an encrypted file of whatever size you want. Within the program, you can then select the file to mount it as an accessible drive.  In Windows, that means you’ll assign it to a drive letter.  On Mac or Linux, you should see the volume appear on your desktop.  Then use it like you would any other volume.  When you are done, you can unmount it and remove the flash drive.  

It does take these few extra steps of mounting your volume to get to your data but it is well worth the ability to access your encrypted data from any OS.  If your data is at all sensitive, you should definitely consider using TrueCrypt.

iPhone Special Diagnostic Codes

Thanks to AppleGuy Tom for providing these codes which work on most US AT&T phones and have been tested on the iPhone. Simply type these codes as if you are calling them.

*3001#12345#* -Displays the Field Test Mode, network, cell, GPRS, call, and version information.

This picture shows the information from one of my cell towers. The Rx Level is showing the signal strength from that particular cell. Note that in Field Test Mode the signal meter in the top left corner changes from a 5 bar readout to a number. This is more accurate and can help when placing your antenna for a signal booster, for example.

*#06# -Displays the 15 digit IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) in the middle of the screen. (This number is also printed on the back of the iPhone.)
This number is worth writing down. Your carrier can deactivate the phone with this number so that it will not work if ever lost or stolen, even when using another SIM card.

*#21# Displays ‘forwarding’ state (enabled or disabled) voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

*#30# -Displays ‘Caller ID’ (enabled or disabled).

*#33# -Displays ‘barring’ state (enabled or disabled) voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

*#43# -Displays ‘call waiting’ state (enabled or disabled) voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

*#61# -Displays ‘call forwarding to voicemail’ state (enabled or disabled) [and number forwarded to] of voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

To change the number of seconds before the call forwards to voicemail, retrieve your eleven digit number from *#61# then carefully type *61*numberRetrieved*11*30# -those last two digits are the seconds to ring (Default is 20; Max = 30)

*#62# -Displays ‘call forwarding when unreachable’ state (enabled or disabled) [and number forwarded to] of voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

*#67# -Displays ‘call forwarding when busy’ state (enabled or disabled) [and number forwarded to] of voice call, data, fax, SMS, sync data, Async data, packet access, and pad access forwarding for outgoing calls.

*225# -Requests an SMS message displaying the current monthly balance. (if applicable)

*646# -Requests an SMS message displaying the remaining monthly minutes. (if applicable)

*777# -Requests an SMS message displaying the pre-paid account balance. (if applicable)

Some other AT&T codes currently do NOT work on the iPhone: *#4720# (voice quality reduction codec -to save battery) and  *3370# (better voice quality codec)

When to buy Apple Products

You don’t want to buy a product just before it is replaced by a faster version at the same price. That’s why MacRumor’s Buyer’s Guide is useful for Apple products. It currently shows that there are many iPods and computers that are due for revisions soon based on the time since the last revision. This coincides with recent rumors of a September 9th event to announce new products.

This does not predict exactly when a new version will arrive.  Apple could come out with a small bump in the middle of a cycle. But if a revision is long overdue, you should consider waiting unless you need something immediately.

Find WiFi networks with iStumbler for Mac OS X

iStumbler allows you to find and determine the strength of WiFi networks. It works only with Macs.

iStumbler is useful when you need access to the internet and need free WiFi. iStumbler will tell you if the network is secure or open. Although connecting to an open WiFi point is of questionable legality, there are some networks from coffee shops and other locations that welcome you.

iStumbler is also useful in setting up wireless networks to see where best to place your access point.

While you can just use the built-in AirPort connection information, iStumbler provides you the signal strength information that might help you.

iMac 24″ Opened and Upgraded

A Fairfax, Virginia customer recently had an iMac 24″ Intel Core 2 Duo 2.16 GHz (the two year old white acrylic plastic model) that had a malfunctioning video card (random lines, ghost windows, static). Otherwise it worked great, so we decided to fix it.

Bad Video Card

Because the iMac was not under AppleCare warranty, we decided not to have Apple fix it for what would probably be $700-$1000.

I ordered a new NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GT video card. The GeForce video card for this iMac has a special MXM PCI Express connector. So you can’t just pick up any GeForce 7600 GT or 7300 GT. Only WeLoveMacs.com appears to sell the correct video card.

Screws Galore

The iMac has lots of philips and hex screws of different sizes. I used these baggies and labels so that I could reassemble the iMac. I do the same thing when taking apart a laptop.

Hard Drive Upgrade

While I had the iMac opened, we upgraded from a 500GB to a 1TB hard drive. This required prying off the hard drive’s heat sensor and reapplying it to the new drive with rubber cement.

Not an Easy Job

The video card unfortunately is underneath the motherboard, which Apple refers to as the “logic board”. It is much easier to bring an iMac or MacBook to Apple for repair than attempting it yourself. Even if you are somewhat skilled, the process takes hours. But if you have an out-of-warranty computer, this could save you some money.

Because there are no other photos of the internals of this iMac online, I’m posting a bunch here: